One thing I didn’t mention is how very noisy the train is when it is on the go. It also sways back and forth. It is not at all like the high-speed trains in Europe, which of course is wonderful, but it does make sleep a challenge.
I usually like to go to sleep when there is a bit of back-and-forth movement, but wow, this train surely rocks and rolls and makes quite a racket doing this. We arrived in Ladysmith at about 2:00 AM and spent the night there. This was good. Now we could all get some sleep!
After a delicious breakfast (poached eggs cooked to perfection) we all alighted from the train and headed off on our morning excursion. There was a choice of 2 tours – a talk on the Spionkop battle during the Boer war, or a game drive.
As we will be going on several game drives in the future, and because Brian is a total history nut, we chose Spionkop.
It was about an hour’s drive to the Spionkop Lodge where we got off the bus and half of the passengers headed off in safari vehicles, and the rest of us got into a small bus and headed up the dusty, bumpy road to the top of Mt Alice. There were memorials to the battle.
There our guide, Raymond, gave us a very comprehensive talk on the history of South Africa, and the conditions that lead to the Boer war. From the summit of Mt Alice we could see over the Tugela river valley to Spionkop where the battle took place.
The battle had a significant number of casualties, including many men from the Lancashire Fusiliers. There is a stand in Anfield Stadium which memorializes those lost in the battle.
Of interest, Louis Botha (later the first prime minister of the Union of South Africa), Churchill, and Gandhi were all on the hill. It is interesting to consider how the course of history could have been altered if any of those 3 men had been killed in the battle.
With that sobering thought, and also a sense of how futile the battle turned out to be, we climbed back into the bus and headed down to the lodge for soft drinks and snacks.
The lodge is in a very beautiful spot, and it was good to relax there and find out how the game drive had gone from our fellow passengers.
It was not a great success. They did see a couple of zebras, but that was all. I would have been disappointed, but quite honestly driving through the African bush always make me happy. It’s not only about the animals, it’s also about the dust and the smell of Africa that makes it so enticing.
After our drinks we climbed back on the bus and drove to Ladysmith station where we joined our train again. We were greeted with rose sparkling wine – just the thing on a hot day.
No time to rest – the gong went as soon as we got back to our suite, and it was time for lunch.
Lunch was again a 4-course affair, with a wine pairing with each course. Normally after that it would definitely be siesta time, but no, it was time to head out on our next adventure. Yay! A game drive.
We piled back into the bus and drove to the Nambiti Plains game reserve.
On getting there we were directed to the safari vehicles,
and in no time at all we were up close and personal with a lone giraffe. The game drive was wonderful. We saw zebras, wildebeest, warthogs, guinea fowl, a white rhino, blesbok, impalas, and a solitary elephant. I was totally in my happy place.
We stopped for sundowners at a small dam, and there across the water was a black rhino. I was so excited, they are not very numerous these days due to poaching, so this was a real treat.
We headed back into the safari vehicle and slowly made our way back to the bus. I had hoped to see more elephants, and my wish came true. There by the side of the road was a superb bull elephant. The problem was that he decided to walk onto the road, and then very slowly wander down the road, totally blocking our passage back to the bus.
About half an hour later he decided to move away. We were in complete darkness by then, so we got the benefit of a night drive too!
The station had been decorated with candles for our return, and looked really lovely. It was such a nice touch. The glass of champagne we were given also added to the magic of the moment.
Normally we would dress for dinner, but as it was already past 8:00 PM we just went straight to dinner.
After dinner we went to the observation car where they were serving cocktails,
and then back to our suite where we were greeted with a box of gifts, and a small bottle of champagne.
Now, I had always thought that all you could drink champagne was an excellent idea, but I had to admit, that even I could not manage everything that had been on offer today.
The train was on the move again, and I was more than ready to climb into our comfy bed and be rocked to sleep as we made our way north to Pretoria.
Loving this. I’ve thought about taking the train across Africa, but wasn’t sure.
Africa is such complex place – I would think the luxury train would really show that divide.
Have you written anything reflecting on your early childhood in Africa compared to now?
I totally recommend taking a train across Africa – but you need to know that this IS Africa, and nothing is certain. As long as you are comfortable with the element of surprise, it works. For me the level of uncertainty is small compared to the joy I get being here. I actually haven’t written about that, but as a child brought up during the Kenya Mau Mau emergency I do find it interesting how things on the one hand have changed so much, but on the other hand so much remains the same 🙂
What an interesting question from Karen – I would love to read ur thoughts comparing So Africa from childhood to now.
Your trips are fascinating, but so is you. & Brian’s background.
Tell us more – please.
I think for all of us, our backgrounds shape who we are today, and how we see the world. Everyone has a story to tell :). One day I may write about ours!