August 5th, 2026
Our missing suitcase was delivered just as we were going to bed last night, which was a good thing too as it contained our rain gear that we will need for our tour today.
There are so many day trips that can be done from Reykjavik picking one was quite a challenge, but in the end, we settled on the 10 hour south coast tour.
It involves waterfalls, glaciers, beaches and the possibility of puffins, so what’s not to love.
We left Reykjavik and drove down the south coast past geothermal areas,
farms,
villages,
glaciers,
and waterfalls.
The landscape did look a bit desolate,
but there was a certain ethereal beauty to it. The light drizzle enhanced the feeling that we were somewhere very different, somewhere special.
Our first stop was at the Skogafoss waterfall. To get a good view of the waterfall from the top you have to climb up a never-ending steep path.
Our driver said it would take 10 minutes. He was wrong. 10 minutes into the climb I was nowhere near halfway up and totally out of breath. I was concerned that it would take me so long to reach the top, that the bus would be halfway to our next destination before I got back down again.
Against my better judgement I did make it to the top, took a quick look at the falls,
and then went back down again, took a quick photo at the bottom
and hurried to the bus. We were the last people to get on the bus (I just hate that), but we made it and have photos to prove it.
I am sure it was a very beautiful waterfall, but all of the angst of getting to the top and back to the bus did detract somewhat from the joy of the experience. Not to worry, there is another waterfall today. And I will NOT climb to the top of this one if given the opportunity.
Our next stop was at Vik, a pretty village with a very typical looking church.
Our driver said that the troll like basalt stacks provide the perfect backdrop for a selfie. We took a photo of the trolls (which quite honestly look nothing like trolls as far as I could tell) but passed on the selfie.
Next to Vik is a wide black sand beach – Reynisfjara beach. This is known for many things. Firstly there is a restaurant there so I was very excited to be able to have lunch. I needed to replenish my strength after the earlier climb. We had a great meal, it was a good choice. Secondly the beach is known for its killer waves which come out of nowhere and drag you out to sea to a watery death. That didn’t sound very safe. Our driver told us not to turn our backs on the water, and then he tried to reassure us that the waves looked very calm today. He was driving the bus, how could he be sure of that?
Then the beach has hexagonal basalt stacks – sort of like Fingal’s cave in Scotland and the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. I wonder if Finn McCool and Benandonner, those infamous Celtic giants would have joined together to defeat the Icelandic trolls had they all met up.
The stacks were amazing to look at, but I couldn’t really concentrate as a was trying to keep an eye on the waves lest a rogue wave should appear. Luckily there were no nasty waves.
The final thing that this area is known for is puffins. Well, secretly that is why I booked this tour, but I hadn’t wanted to get my hopes up, so I told myself that it was for the waterfalls. When we stopped at Reynisfjara beach I asked our driver if there were any puffins. He shook his head and said there had been some on a nearby island but they had left, so there were no puffins in the area.
I had prepared myself for this response, but when we were looking at the basalt stacks we noticed that there were loads of little birds flying around. Could this possibly be………?
Brian took a photo – and YES!!!!! There were puffins! I was so excited. That was all I needed to see, we could go back to the hotel now. I was very happy.
When we got back on the bus the young man sitting across from me said he had climbed the basalt stacks and armed with his selfie stick, he had taken a close up of the puffins. And sure enough he had taken a great photo. Yay for puffins.
Our next stop was at the Solheimajokull Glacier. The glacier has been receding over the past few years, and now there is a lake with small icebergs which appeared a few years ago.
The glacier looks really dirty, due to layers of rocks and volcanic sand, but it was still great to see it.
Our final stop was at the Seljalandsfoss waterfall. The story goes that a troll buried treasure behind it many years ago, and the treasure has still to be found.
You can walk behind the waterfall – fun, but you get quite wet!
Back in Reykjavik we had dinner at the Posthuis. This is a wonderful upscale food court housed in the old post office. The food was great, and it had a very vibrant atmosphere, packed with locals having a fun evening.
Then we walked around the downtown area a bit, marveling that it was still light so late in the evening.
Then it was time to return to the hotel and get ourselves sorted out for our flight tomorrow. Today Iceland (with puffins) tomorrow Greenland. Life is good.
I laughed but emphasized about the waterfall climb. I was in Iceland for 10 days a few years ago and did a tour “Inside a Volcano” which involved traipsing across a moss & lava field to/from the volcano and our bus in the parking lot. I was the last one in the group coming back and although I felt like I was taking big strides, and was out of breath, we (me and the tour guide assigned to shepherd me) saw the bus leaving without me in the distance. She had to sprint ahead to stop the bus and they waited by the side of the road; it probably took me 10 mins to walk/jog there, in the rain, and collapse into a seat. So, I understand about that feeling of worry. I also took a guided glacier walk and when we had to jump across a crevasse (which was only 2-3 ft wide), I was quite worried; the old lady on the tour did it just fine but the guide finally straddled the crevasse and handed me across. After Iceland, I’ve realized my limitations and even though I work out 3xweek, I take the slow and easy approach – I tell myself I can see a lot more! But, glad you made it to the top and back onto the bus. I thought the landscape was amazing and still have vivid memories of riding horses on the Vik beach. I’m envious of your trip!
Golly, that sounds just like me! The tours looked so interesting, and I was very tempted. I would have totally failed at those you did. Well done for persevering! The horses on Viking beach must have been so magical 🙂
I laughed but emphasized about the waterfall climb. I was in Iceland for 10 days a few years ago and did a tour “Inside a Volcano” which involved traipsing across a moss & lava field to/from the volcano and our bus in the parking lot. I was the last one in the group coming back and although I felt like I was taking big strides, and was out of breath, we (me and the tour guide assigned to shepherd me) saw the bus leaving without me in the distance. She had to sprint ahead to stop the bus and they waited by the side of the road; it probably took me 10 mins to walk/jog there, in the rain, and collapse into a seat. So, I understand about that feeling of worry. I also took a guided glacier walk and when we had to jump across a crevasse (which was only 2-3 ft wide), I was quite worried; the old lady on the tour did it just fine but the guide finally straddled the crevasse and handed me across. After Iceland, I’ve realized my limitations and even though I work out 3xweek, I take the slow and easy approach – I tell myself I can see a lot more! But, glad you made it to the top and back onto the bus. I thought the landscape was amazing and still have vivid memories of riding horses on the Vik beach. I’m envious of your trip!
Greatly relieved that your missing bag showed up. It has been a stressful 24 hours waiting for your Day 2 post. Not sure if I am just too empathetic or you are too good a writer or some combination there of. In any case, carry on.
This is quite the amazing expedition. I have to admit that I was totally unaware that there was a reliable enough NW Passage, even in the Summer Time, to allow for scheduled commercial cruising operations. Will be following with great interest.
We will be boarding the QE in Seattle in a few weeks, heading to Alaska, although now it feels like we are cheating:)
We shall find out if there is a reliable passage through the NWP some day soon………..So far it is looking good, but I certainly feel like a bit of a pioneer. Enjoy the QE – we did it as a family cruise a few years ago and our daughter’s boyfriend proposed to her in front of the Hubbard Glacier. How romantic is that!
I’m so glad you are doing this. I think it was Ray (I used to connect with him on Cruise Critic) who did it some years ago – like only the second time. It should amazing.
There are limits on the ships going through the passage – Seabourn isn’t doing the complete transit next year. I am so excited that we are on this cruise – so far it has been wonderful!
Love good Pffin
Hey, after penguins they are totally the best.