Machu Picchu

March 23^rd, 2024

It was dark when we arrived at the hotel, but when we got up we were able to see what a lovely view we had outside our window.

We went to the dining room for breakfast and had a wonderful buffet breakfast, which included quinoa except I opted for a chocolate croissant. We were serenaded by musician playing a harp. Not something you get with your breakfast buffet on the Sapphire Princess.

The hotel is on the Urubamba river, and we drove along the river in the Sacred Valley toward the railway station at Ollantantambo.

The valley is called sacred because it is so fertile, and we passed by the fields and Inca towns, on our way to the train.

There was chaos at the station. Clearly we weren’t the only people going to Mach Pichu today. We waited in the crowds watching trains come and go, being serenaded by very loud musicians. I do like Peruvian music, so this was really great.

Finally our train arrived and we settled in at our table. What was for lunch? Quinoa salad for starters, followed by local rainbow trout.

Yet again serenaded by local musicians.

I finally got to get my Pisco Sour, and it was very good. Why the ship can’t make them is beyond me!

There was a surprise gift for us inside the lunch boxes – insect repellent. We had heard that the insect life was fierce in Machu Picchu, so they were making sure we were well prepared.

The train followed the river, winding it’s way along the valley, where the vegetation was becoming thicker and thicker and soon we were in the jungle.

We made one stop where we watch 2 women load something on to a donkey. May of the locals live high up in the mountains, and use their donkeys to carry heavy loads for them. To think I get worn out carrying the groceries in from the car to the kitchen.

We arrived in Aqua Caliente, the station for Mach Picchu, and walked through the stalls in the town to catch our bus to our destination.

We climbed aboard and started our steep ascent along those hairpin bends that we had seen in the photo at the introductory talk for our tour. Luckily I was sitting in an aisle seat so I couldn’t see how close to the edge we were.

Finally we arrived at our destination. Machu Picchu. I felt like I had been traveling for days. Well I suppose I had. I got off the bus to be greeted by light drizzle. It is the end of the rainy season, so rain was to be expected, and I suppose we had been lucky so far.

Out came our rain jackets, and off we set through the drizzle and mist. Maria asked if we wanted to take the high route or the low route (you tak’ the high road, and I’ll tak’ the low road and I’ll be in Scotland afore ye. Well with this drizzle and mist it does feel a bit like Scotland)), Although I must say some of our party looked a bit frail, we unanimously chose the high road. The more difficult climb.

We set off up the wet steep stairs huffing and puffing due to the high altitude.

As an aside we had specifically been told that you were not allowed to use hiking poles, or take plastic water bottles with you. However,  some rebellious souls in our group  had their hiking poles with them, and what’s more were using them, and we had a plastic water bottle which Maria had assured me was OK and we would not get arrested.

Up and up we went, and as we made our ascent the rain gradually stopped,, and the mist was lifting. Finally we were at the top, and if we were in Disney Land there would be a little sign saying Kodak Picture Spot. Fortunately there wasn’t.

The sun came out and bathed the Incan structures in a soft glow,

while all around us the mountains continued to be dark and menacing. It was a very magical sight, and we stayed there for a while, absorbing the amazing scene before us.

We could see the Urubamba River, snaking its way between the mountains, in the valley way below us.

The houses and the terraces

And the friendly llamas.

We entered through the main gate

We couldn’t enter the Temple of the Sun, but could see it from above. The Temple of the sun had the function of paying homage and giving offerings to the sun. In addition, at the bottom, there was a cave that would have had the function of a grave or mausoleum. It served as an astronomical observatory where it was possible to exactly determine the arrival of the solstices, and the seasonal changes due to the strategic position of the windows. During the sunrise in the summer solstices, the two windows cast shadows on the central rock of the temple. Also in the center of the temple there is an altar carved in rock where religious ceremonies were performed in honor of the sun. There were also probably human sacrifices, but Maria did not want to discuss that.

Apart from the green grass, there didn’t seem to be much color, but a closer look showed orchids and bromeliads and other plants flourishing.

We spent hours climbing up and down looking at temples, houses, and warehouses, sun dials, drainage channels. There is just so much to see and to marvel at.

But all good things must come to an end. The weather had been perfect, and there hadn’t been any bugs. We headed back down to the bus.

Back in Aqua Client, Maria explained to us that there had been a landslide on the train tracks and so our 5:00 PM train had been delayed a bit. So she said she would take us around the local market.

There were also skinned guinea pigs ready to roast, but luckily Brian didn’t take any photos of them. It’s a strange cultural thing. I have no problem looking at chickens and turkeys in the market, but somehow a little guinea pig upsets me.

The train was still delayed, so we wandered around the town square for a while.

Then it got dark, and Maria said we should wait in the station. So we sat in the station waiting. We were given free snacks, quinoa crackers and some other kind of quinoa edible. Three hours later the train arrived. We were very grateful to finally get on the train.

I had thought that I would have a nap on the train. But it didn’t work out that way. We were encouraged to join the party in the front carriage of the train, so off we went. The front carriage is like the rear carriage in some luxury trains we have been on, where you can sit calmly on the seats in the open air section sipping your champagne and listening to Mozart.

Not so on our train. The open carriage was at the front train, leaving you exposed to all of the wind and noise from the train. However, the band was playing so loudly, all you could hear was their music. Then the dancers came, and everyone was having a jolly old time. The noise alert function on Brian’s Apple watch kindly let us know that it was too loud. We did not need a warning, we knew that already.

So there we were hurtling through the darkest Peruvian jungle being blasted by loud Peruvian music, and watching manic dancers. It was all very surreal. Wes Anderson could use it in his next movie.

Finally, in between songs, Brian and I made a hasty exit for our coach, and a bit of peace and quiet. But no, no peace and quiet. No sooner had we sat down than all of a sudden there was a fashion show, accompanied of course by loud Peruvian music. Never before have I seen a fashion show on a train, but hey, today has been full of surprises, so why not.

Finally the music stopped, the fashion show participants disappeared into the adjacent carriage, and it was calm and peaceful once more.

The train rattled into the night, blowing its whistle which seemed to reverberate around the valley. It really had been a perfect day.

We arrived back at the hotel at 10:30. Most of our group shuffled off to their rooms. Seeing as the cooks had stayed up and prepared dinner for us, Brian thought it was only right that we helped them out by eating it. There were very few of us in the dining room, but the rest of our group really missed out on a great meal. Vegetable soup, fillet mignon cooked to perfection, and a chocolate brownie and vanilla ice cream. And no quinoa in sight.

It was way too late to get together with our friend and yet again too late for a swim, so we just went back to our room and to prepare for our tour tomorrow.