July 8^th, 2026

Halifax

When we woke up this morning the tide was high again.

It must be fascinating to live here and watch the tides, although I suppose you may get bored after a while. I know I wouldn’t  though.

Cresthaven by the Sea where we are staying has 3 guest rooms. One on the ground floor and 2 upstairs. We were in one of the upstairs rooms, Eagle View. It was very aptly named. As soon as we parked our car, Warren, the owner pointed out 2 eagles in the trees. Yes, it is a very special place. We must come back one day.

I loved our room as it had great views of the river from 2 sides, but most of all because of the print of the Cape Spear Lighthouse.

We were at the Cape Spear Lighthouse last September, and it ended up costing us a lot of money.

We were on the Seabourn Sojourn and in St John’s for the day. Usually we like exploring ports on foot, but the weather was cold and rainy so we thought the shelter of the hop on hop off bus would be just the thing. It was not a bus as it turned out, more like a large van, and the large pink sign on the side failed to identify it as the hop on hop off bus, but we had our tickets so off we went.

We had failed to hop off or on at any of the stops, but despite the freezing cold weather (for which we were totally inadequately clothed) we felt we had to hop off at Cape Spear. I mean it is the eastern most point of the Americas. We couldn’t resist seeing it.

We saw it and then found that there was a little coffee shop there, so we took refuge with a coffee and hot chocolate in hand.

The only other person crazy enough to be there and risk getting blown away out to sea was a woman who had just disembarked from the Seabourn Venture. She had sailed through the Northwest Passage from Nome to St Johns. She couldn’t stop talking about the amazing experience she had had. The polar bears, and narwhals in particular. It sounded fabulous. Something we had to do one day in the future. Then she said that 2026 was the last time Seabourn would be sailing through the Northwest Passage, and that the cruise was completely sold out.

When we had boarded the bus/van this morning the Northwest Passage was the farthest thing from my mind, but by the time we had returned to the ship I was convinced we had to do this even though we had the current Queen Mary 2 voyage booked, and we were going to Zimbabwe in September for our 50^th university reunion. That was more than enough time away.

Back on board I went straight to see Ryan, the future cruise salesperson, and although the cruise was basically fully booked, he was able to find one cabin for us. So, all of a sudden, I had paid the deposit, and we were all set to go. It was a ridiculously expensive cruise, but then expedition cruises tend not to come cheap.

I could have found a Russian icebreaker to go on for the trip, but that just didn’t appeal. Unfortunately, I am just too set in my ways for Russian icebreakers, I have become too used to bubble baths and hot tubs when the weather turns nasty.

Anyway, here we are in a bed and breakfast in the Bay of Fundy, and there is the lighthouse that we can blame for our cruise next month.

One thing I love about bed and breakfasts is the breakfast, and today’s was really great, with loads of fresh fruit.

We loaded up the car, said goodbye to Warren and headed back to Halifax, stopping for lunch in. Unlike the last 2 restaurants we have patronized, this one was a winner, the Good Day Kitchen and Café in Fall River, and they had the best hot chocolate ever with loads of cream and marshmallows.

Brian’s sister and brother-in-law are spending 2 weeks in the Halifax area to be close to our niece who is a professor at a local university. By some wonderful bit of luck, our visit coincided with theirs so after dropping off the rental car the 4 of us went to spend the afternoon at. We thought we were being a bit optimistic doing this as it kept on looking like it was going to rain, but the rain held off until it was time to go back to the ship.

We visited the Fort Needham Memorial Park commemorating the Halifax Explosion which was a maritime disaster that occurred in Halifax. On the morning of December 6, 1917 a deadly communications error resulted in the collision of two ships in the harbor, one of them a munitions ship loaded with explosives bound for the battlefield of the First World War. Just before 9:05 a.m. the cargo onboard the Mont Blanc exploded, unleashing a force more powerful than anything wrought by humankind before the detonation of the atomic bomb.

Over 1900 people were killed, and another 9000 suffered severe injuries. Both Dartmouth and Halifax suffered extensive damage. The Mi’kmaq settlement at Turtle Grove was completely destroyed.

The park is home to the Halifax Explosion Memorial Bell Tower where the memorial service for the Explosion is held annually on December 6th. The bells sounded on the half hour, but they were not in sync with the actual time which was a bit unusual.

There were memorials to the ships lost in the explosion,

and benches listing the explosives that were involved in the explosion.

Despite the somber nature of the park, there were beautiful flower beds

And we found the perfect spot to have our picnic.

We found a picnic bench and sat eating fruit (and drinking a Coke), catching up with all of our news since we saw them last in July on our river cruise.

It was the perfect way to spend the afternoon; they live in Canada so we don’t get to see them that often so it is always a treat when we can get together

Back on the ship we hurriedly had to get ready for our 2^nd formal (gala) night of the voyage. I had read that because it was a port day it would not be a gala night, which was OK by me, I wasn’t too thrilled to be struggling in to my formal dress after a long day ashore. But then I found out it was in fact a gala evening. Oh well. I would simply have to make the effort.

Once we were all formalled up, we went to the Commodore Club to have drinks with friends. They are absolutely lovely, and we had a fascinating time learning all about the history of the Acadians in Nova Scotia, and current Cajuns living in Louisiana. It was perfect to sit there with them, sipping away on bubbly.

The only issue was that the ship had run out of crisps, but not to worry they had restocked in Halifax and would have them available soon. But not alas before we had to leave the Commodore Club and go for dinner.

Deirdre, Kim, Brian and I were dining with Yoyo, the future cruise sales lady, in Coriander. I have known Yoyo since we booked our very first Queen Mary 2 cruise with her when we were on QE2. She had warned me that Mary was “a very big ship”, but reassured me that I would love the Commodore Club. She was so right!

It was a lovely evening – good food and great company. It is nights like this that make Cunard so special, and make me want to stay onboard longer. Forget about disembarking. Although I must say that the lack of a Strongbow Original cider to go with my curry was a huge mistake on Cunard’s part. Together with Veuve Clicquot I will have to bring some of my own cider on board with me. I wonder if they would charge corkage? After all it is their error in switching suppliers of cider forcing me to take this action.

We had hoped to go to the show. It was “Let’s Dance”, one of my favorites. When we got to the Royal Court Theatre it was standing room only, and being a bit short, standing would not have worked for me, so we returned to our stateroom.

An early night might actually not be a bad idea. We had been so lucky to experience 2 amazing days in Nova Scotia. Halifax is one of those ports where no matter how often you visit there is always something new to do. We haven’t even gone to pay our respects at the Titanic cemetery. Oh well, something to do next time. And I know there will be a next time.