Takoradi, Ghana

December 15^th, 2024

Yesterday we were in a new country for us, today it’s another new country, Ghana.

Again, we are in a busy cargo port, but at least there were several stalls selling souvenirs on the quayside, making it feel less commercial somehow.

I watched us as we came into our berth. Our bow thrusters hard at work, and a tug standing by just in case there were problems.

No problems today, we were alongside in no time at all, but we did have to wait around for a while until the Ghanaian authorities cleared the ship.

For our 2 days in Ghana our friends had organized a tour through a friend of theirs. Samuel had been very responsive in getting it organized, although it seems like we kept on changing the itinerary. Part of the issue was that 2 of the options, Nzulenzu stilt village and the Kakum canopy walk were about a 3 hour drive from the port. I would have felt comfortable with this distance if I was on a ship’s tour, and there was a guarantee that we could get back to the ship in time, but it seemed to be a bit far for a private tour when the ship was not doing an overnight or late sailing from the port.

We settled on Elmina Castle and fishing village, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

Although it was a 2 hour drive from the port, and the roads were in really bad shape, it was an interesting drive. Somehow yesterday I really didn’t feel that I was back in Africa. Today I certainly felt like I had come home.

The heat and humidity, and vegetation as we drove to Elmina was very reminiscent of the drive from Mombasa to Malindi. It even smelled the same.

All along the way there were shops and stalls. Many were closed because it was Sunday, but the ones that were open were selling fruit and vegetables, clothes, housewares, paint, and of course there were bars

And a couple of cemeteries.

The recent election posters were still evident everywhere we went

And we also became involved in a election celebration parade. It was all great fun.

Another thing that reminded me of Kenya was the presence of religious establishments everywhere.

It was a long drive, but I enjoyed every minute of it.

Finally, we reached Elmina and St George’s Castle.

The castle was originally built by the Portuguese, It was the first trading post built on the Gulf of Guinea, and the oldest European building in existence south of the Sahara. Although it was established as a trade settlement, the castle later became one of the most important stops on the route of the Atlantic slave trade.

The Dutch seized the fort from the Portuguese in 1637, after an unsuccessful attempt in 1596, and took over all of the Portuguese Gold Coast in 1642. The slave trade continued under the Dutch until 1814. In 1872, the Dutch Gold Coast, including the fort, became a possession of the United Kingdom.

The castle is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, because of its testimony to the Atlantic slave trade.

But listening to our excellent guide who explained the incredibly sad history of the thousands of people who were held here in appalling conditions.

It was such a beautiful sunny day, with cooling breezes off the ocean, and the magnificent sound of the waves crashing on the adjacent beach. It was impossible to really comprehend the enormity of the tragedy that those nations perpetrated here over many years.

The fort itself is a very interesting building, with great views of the fishing village of Elmina, and the coast.

We had lunch at the fort

And then explored the fish market and harbor.

Ice blocks are used to keep the fish fresh

Some fish were drying in the sun. Another way to preserve them.

There were so many fishing boats. It was amazing.

It was difficult to comprehend that such a vibrant fishing village was situated next to the fort with such a horribly sad history.

On our way back to Takoradi along the extremely bumpy road we passed a funeral. When someone passes away the family make posters about their deceased and we saw them all along the road, including some on billboards.

We had decided the ask to be dropped off at the ship’s shuttlebus stop in town. This was not easy to find – the instructions were that it was at the Takoradi Market Circle opposite the Fidelity Bank. Well it clearly wasn’t there, but we were eventually able to locate a tent across the road from the Garden Mart Supermarket where our shuttle bus driver from the morning sat dozing. Also seated in the tent were 3 napping police officers. We joined them and I had a quick snooze before the shuttle bus appeared and whisked us back to the ship.

Luckily the port wasn’t as chaotic as Abidjan, and we were back home in no time. As it was close to all aboard time I didn’t get a chance to look at the quayside stalls. There will be time for shopping at a later date.

It was another lovely evening for a sail away. Amber and the band entertained us as we slowly headed out into the Atlantic Ocean.

My favorite flautist, Clare Langham, gave her final performance tonight. I heard seen her many times on cruise ships, but she has always performed in the ship’s theater, on the Sojourn she performed in the Grand Salon. This is so much more up close and personal; you can really feel her energy and her love for what she is doing. It was an amazing performance.

When we returned to our suite there was a letter warning us that we would be in the Gulf of Guinea during our transit from Tema to Sao Tome and there will be anti-pirate measures in place.

There were instructions as to what we should do should we be approached by a suspicious craft. Hopefully, no pirates would be interested in the little Sojourn.